Part 11. A Side Order of Ham and the End of the Trail

The next morning we woke up at an un-Godly hour of 06:00 in order to be on the road as early as possible.  Still remembering our desert heat adventures during the West Coast trip of 2 years ago, we weren’t in the mood to repeat the heat exhaustion experience.  Even though the previous 9 days of this trip weren’t suggestive of any excessive heat, we were in sunny California, and we weren’t taking any chances!

At 06:30 in the morning, when we rolled the bikes out of the hotel parking lot, the weather was very comfortable – not too hot, not too cold, just right.  No sign of rain, gale-force winds, or ice on the fuel tank – this was positively a good sign.

By the 10th day of our adventure we were a bit overdosed on sights, so opted for a straight Interstate line into LA.  The 91 miles between Needles and Ludlow, our next planned stop, included an almost 70-mile stretch of road with no services or gas.  Following the unwritten rule of any road trip of “Tank when you can, eat when you can, and pee when you can”, we filled our gas tanks before leaving Needles.  A quick calculation confirmed that this should be enough to bring us to Ludlow before we start panicking about running out in the middle of the California desert.

Welcome to the Ludlow Cafe!

The biggest surprise of the day was of culinary nature, and awaited us in the nondescript Ludlow Café on the other side of the “gas-less” stretch of the Interstate.  By the time we reached Ludlow, we were more than ready for breakfast.  Knowing full well that for an average European a standard American breakfast was a free ticket to the emergency room due to its size and nutritional value, I decided to be smart.  I would not order any of the mouth-watering set breakfasts, so temptingly outlined on the menu, but will go for the sides instead – one fried egg, a side of hash browns and maybe some additional protein thrown into the mix.  “A side of ham” for $5.20 looked like a really good idea, so I added it to my order.

While waiting for the breakfast to be cooked, we browsed through the café’s impressive collection of “books about life”, ranging from “How to Confuse the Idiots in Your Life” (I desperately need this one!) to “The Disgusted Driver’s Handbook” (might come in handy as well…) by one Ben Goode (probably not his real name).  The books alone make a stop at the Ludlow Café worth your while, and you could browse through the random selection of table copies strategically positioned on each table together with cutlery and napkins, or buy your own personal copy in the gift shop.

The food arrived promptly, and I was in for the culinary surprise of my life.  “The side of ham” thrown into the mix at the last moment, turned out to be a humongous slice of a whole pig’s buttock, the size of my head.  I was hungry, but much as I tried, I barely made a dent in it after fighting with the thing for almost an hour.  I had to apologize profusely to the scary-looking cook covered with tattoos, but the waitress came to my rescue, adding that I was not the first customer not to have managed the task.

The Side Order of Ham…
I gave it a good shot

We rolled onto our bikes, and continued direction LA.  This was out 10th day on the road, and we were all overdosed on sights – we were looking forward to putting the kickstands down for longer than one night, and were anxious to reunite with Nika and Andy in the film studio, pretending to be a city, pretending to be a film studio.  We farsightedly booked a hotel next door to their digs in Little Korea, and the Shelter Hotel became our home for the next 5 days, and a welcome pit stop for our mighty steeds at only $20/night for a spacious parking spot in their underground garage.

Korean barbecue

The rest of the day unfolded in a whirlwind with drinks in a nearby corner bar waiting for our room to be ready, a trip to a laundromat to get some clean clothes (after 10 straight nomadic days on the road we started running out), and a hearty meal at Jjukku Jjukku BBQ with Nika next door.  We left sated (somehow, the humongous “side of ham” have mysteriously disappeared from my stomach by the evening, having undoubtedly positioned itself comfortably in my butt) and smelling of barbecue and invaded one of the famous local watering holes – the HMS Bounty Bar at the Gaylord hotel.  The place was perfect to continue with our alcohol-infused program: it combined history with easy-going atmosphere and superb selection of drinks.  We celebrated the reunion with LA in style!

The following several days blurred into one endless party – old friends and new friends, bottomless Mimosa Saturday brunch at the Saddle Ranch, followed by un-identified bright blue shots, crashing a random rooftop pool party on Hollywood Boulevard (there were no witnesses or photographic evidence!), more alcohol, reunion with more old friends in a rock-N-roll bar (the name of which completely escapes me), carrying one of the new friends to the taxi for home delivery – all in all a perfect Los Angeles weekend!

Un-identified blue shots

5 days later, we had to go back home – time does fly when you are having fun!… We packed our shit back into the bags, strapped the bags back to our bikes, and delivered our trusty steeds back to the Eagle Rider. All in all – it was a great trip! We covered
2,539 miles (4,086 km) in 10 days, rode through pouring rains, gale-force winds, snow and sun, partied in Los Angeles, crashed parties in Hollywood, and had the best times we won’t remember with the friends we can’t forget. What a ride!

Bye-bye, Los Angeles!…
The last stretch of our Route 66 trip – from Needles, CA to LA

Part 3 – The Cat

The cat was a clear-cut blackmail job.  And Evil Granny had a hand in it big time.

As pretty much every only child I’ve been begging my parents for a brother or a sister ever since I started talking.  I kinda wanted an older brother or a sister, but would have settled for a younger one as well…  At some point the parents sat me down, and appealed to my senses (I’ve always been a very reasonable child).  They took up the strategy that even the hard-core EU negotiators of today would be proud of, and demonstrated the value of having a young sibling to me first-hand.  They put an orange in front of me – at that point in time any piece of fruit, regardless of ripeness, taste or the nutritional value thereof, was a priceless object of desire for me – and asked if I wanted it.  No shit, Sherlock – like any malnourished Soviet child from the North I was ready to swallow said orange together with peel and seeds right there and then!  I was then patiently explained, that if I were to have it right now, the whole fucking orange would be mine for the taking.  If, however, I happened to have a sibling, and a younger one at that, I would be expected to share said orange with the little brother or sister I so much desired, thus having only half of it.

This was clear and simple enough and I quickly changed my story.  I no longer wanted a little brother or a sister (orange stealers!), and started asking for a dog instead.  I learned to read really early, and read in books about dogs being a man’s best friend. I was also smart enough to realize that as carnivores they shouldn’t be much into fruit and my oranges would be safe with them.  Upon further contemplation, my 6-year old mind decided that I might possibly compromise on a cat, but would not budge any further.

Considering our limited accommodation situation (see the description of our communal digs in Part 1 – Uncle Sasha), my parents weren’t overly enthused about having anything or anyone else invade our living space and my demands for a cuddly pet were falling on deaf ears.

Being a quick-thinking and industrious child, I realize that if things were to move forward, I would have to take matters into my own hands. 

The opportunity presented itself soon enough.

One day, we went with Evil Granny to the dairy shop to buy some milk, and there it was – my golden opportunity!  In a shape of a very white, very fluffy and very big cat.  Bingo!!!  It did not take me too long to convince Evil Granny that the cat had to go with us.  She was well aware of my parents’ opposition to pets, and must have been already gloating at their indignation, when she nonchalantly said “Sure!”, and allowed me to grab the huge and suspiciously obliging cat into my arms and drag it home.

I was thrilled – not only did my dream finally come true, but it came true in the shape and form of a beauty that I could not have even imagined.  The cat was magnificent – spotlessly white, blue-eyed, fluffy and very, very pregnant.  Obviously, the latter moment completely escaped my 6-year old attention.

When my Mom came home from work, and I ran to hear screaming happily “Look who I got here!!!!!” this was the first thing she noticed – her daughter dragging along the corridor a gigantic animal, that was at risk of giving birth right there and then.  She nearly had a heart attack, and this was the first time when I heard her swearing at Evil Granny, who pretended to be deaf and quickly hid in the toilet.

When my Dad came home, and was subjected to the demonstration of the pregnant cat by his daughter absolutely beaming with joy, the family council was called in.  My parents locked themselves in the kitchen, and started devising strategic plans on getting rid of the white beauty before it produced 8 or 10 more.  Evil Granny continued to hide in the bathroom, and Uncle Sasha was busy drinking, so they had to come up with the plan all by themselves.

I was oblivious to the conspiracy, and was busy trying to play with the cat, running back and forth along the corridor with a piece of newspaper tied to the end of a rope.  The cat was sitting in the corner, panting, ignoring all my attempts at socializing and probably praying to feline Gods to let this little monster leave her alone.  I was not easily disappointed, and spent the first evening in joyous oblivion, happily running along the corridor all by myself.  I finally had company, and this was enough!  The cat was just shy and needed time to get used to its’ new digs and the new best friend.

My parents must have been good at psychology, or just happened to know their daughter really well.  The plan devised behind the closed kitchen doors was as ingenious as it was cunning.  Starting from the next morning, I started getting almost hourly updates from the dairy shop.  They came through Mom and Dad, and even through Uncle Sasha, who was probably bribed to cooperate with potatoes and vodka.  Evil Granny kept full neutrality on the subject, and did not get involved.

I stopped by the dairy shop today to get milk, and the cat is being very much missed there!”, my Mom would say first thing as she came back home from work.

Actually, the sales lady from the shop called earlier today,” my Dad would echo, “and asked if the cat was OK.”

They really miss her so much, they keep crying that you took her away!”  My Mom was trying to appeal to my sense of compassion. “Crying! ALL the time!...”

I was not really listening.  I was busy trying to engage the cat in the games that I invented by the dozen.  The cat was still sitting in the corner, looking docile and un-impressed.

Uhm….  Yeah, they do miss the cat,” Uncle Sasha would put in his 5 cents through the cigarette smoke billowing from under his door to the approving glances from my parents.

My sense of compassion was still unresponsive, but after a couple of days I was starting to get annoyed with the cat.  It just would not play with me!..

My parents did not attempt to explain the concepts of the late stages of feline pregnancy to a 6-year old, and stuck to their story – the cat was being very much missed in the dairy shop.

And the cat must miss them too, this is why it does not want to play with you.  It is sad, it misses home and its old friends!…

They intentionally did not give the cat a name, fearing that this might be a potential first step to its settling in with us.  Personally, I could not care less whether the ladies in the dairy shop were crying or not, but the cat not joining me in mad races along the corridor was a huge blow.  My parents noticed my disappointment, and worked it like pros.

Five more calls today from a dairy shop….” my Dad would say solemnly.  “They said they could not work without the cat.  They are too sad.  And I think the cat feels it.  It looks so sad, almost ready to cry.”

Blatant lie, but after a couple of days it started to sink in.

Don’t you think we should take the cat back home, to the dairy shop, and make everybody happy?...”

When the key question was popped, I was ready to part with the cat.  Not with my dream, though.

I put up a show of deep thinking (I would have thrown a tantrum, had I known how), cried a little, pretended to be deeply emotionally upset, and finally threw in my negotiation card on the table.

If we bring the kitty back, what do I get in return?...”

My parents must have rehearsed this scenario as well, for I was very quickly promised a little kitten in replacement – a friend of friends’ cat just had kittens.

A little kitten would play with you,” my parents assured.  “It will be your real friend, and the cat will be happy to be back home.

And so it was.  The cat was escorted back to the dairy shop, where it spent the last days of pregnancy being pampered with cream, milk and cottage cheese, gave birth to a 10-kitten litter of fluffy white balls, which were almost immediately adopted by the shop staff and patrons, and continued living happily ever after without little monsters chasing it along the corridor.

A month later, my parents brought home a little fur-ball, that I unimaginatively called Tishka (the quiet one).  He played with me all right, and developed an amazing ability to jump on the walls to an almost shoulder height, and slide down with claws full of wallpapers.  I swear I did not train him to do this!

He grew to be a magnificent, long-haired and bushy-tailed cat, and lived to the ripe old age of 21.  Throughout all these years we had shredded wallpapers and cat hair on our clothes and in our food and loved the cat dearly.